![]() Subversion can be described as an attack on the public morale and, "the will to resist intervention are the products of combined political and social or class loyalties which are usually attached to national symbols. Subversion (from Latin subvertere 'overthrow') refers to a process by which the values and principles of a system in place are contradicted or reversed in an attempt to transform the established social order and its structures of power, authority, hierarchy, and social norms. Illegal consumption (such as prohibition of drugs, alcohol, and smoking).For other uses, see Subversion (disambiguation). They appreciated the reference, but even those that didn’t know it still appreciated it on an aesthetic level”.This article is about the political concept of subversion. “We mentioned Mapplethorpe without giving the image, but a lot of people that were interested in my work already knew that photograph. Although these minute details are easy to miss, the designer remains adamant that their buried nature makes their inclusion more interesting. ![]() ![]() References to this particular photograph appeared in the form of small, multifunctional straps and rings attached to clothing which, Pieter says, could be worn as anything from a bracelet to a cock ring. More specifically, it was one image of a chained-up, leather clad gay couple that sparked a wave of creativity. His own designs, for example, are aesthetically pleasing and commercially viable yet draw from a pool of leftfield references. Photographer Robert Mapplethorpe – the artist infamous for his sexually explicit, black-and-white photographs documenting New York’s BDSM scene in the 70s – was a key inspiration for his last collection. Nonetheless, Pieter is optimistic that buyers will see the appeal of buying unique pieces from young designers. “For an uneducated consumer, it just makes them more frustrated about waiting six months when they know they can now get it from other brands immediately.” Pieter also argues that buyers could be deterred from investing in young talents. “Obviously see-now buy-now is tough for young designers – you can’t stock up on something you haven’t shown yet because you don’t know people are going to respond to it”. “Right now I don’t see there being a‘right’ way to do business,” he says. The result is an unprecedented demand on young designers who are now expected to offer up collections just days after their runway debut – a demand which Pieter says is impossible to meet. There’s also the continued debate surrounding a see-now buy-now approach, which has already been adopted by a slew of industry behemoths looking to satisfy the instant cravings of impatient consumers. Pieter’s enthusiasm for the runway is refreshing in fact, many industry insiders are beginning to question whether the catwalk is still necessary in a world of fashion film and static presentations. If not, you end up with a wardrobe full of really crazy pieces that you can never really wear more than once.” “In any collection you need pieces which stand out on the runway,” Pieter tells me, “but you also need those clothes that you can wear every day. ![]() This focus on wearability has resulted in consistently strong collections, NEWGEN sponsorship as well as a selection of big-name clients such as Harvey Nichols buying into his commercial vision. With hints of subversion and leftfield references buried within Pieter’s collections, there’s also a continued emphasis on structure and wearability, which stems from his tailoring background. ![]() As the straps would suggest, the designer’s target client is “a man that is sexually aware of his body he is very confident, but he also refers back to the structure of traditional menswear.” His last collection incorporated a variety of silhouettes which ranged from one piece inspired by a bulletproof vest to an oversized flame- red shirt adorned with bondage strap details. But it’s the label’s subtle references to gay subculture that sets his designs apart. Through his label PIETER, he aims to create classic pieces rooted in wearability. Sebastiaan Pieter is a Dutch designer looking to remedy this. Although the current menswear industry is more progressive and original than ever before, there’s still a distinct lack of sex on the LC:M runways. ![]()
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